So You Want a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel...
Every dog deserves a responsible, educated owner.
I believe people should have the right to decide when and how they wish to add a dog to their family. Adopting from a reputable rescue or shelter or buying a puppy or an older dog being retired from showing/breeding from a competent, caring breeder are all equally valid options. For some people, a rescue or shelter dog, whether purebred or mixed breed, is a great option. For others, they may prefer buying a dog from a reputable breeder who can provide support throughout the dog’s life. Some people do not mind not having much information about a dog’s parentage and health history; others may feel strongly about knowing as much as possible about a dog’s background. Some people have the time, energy, and skills to help a rescue or shelter dog have a successful second act in life. Other people
need the predictability and biddability of a particular breed.
That being said, with rights come responsibilities. I take care to responsibly breed my Cavaliers to preserve the unique characteristics that make them special and wonderful. I expect owners who buy one of my puppies to be responsible as well by ensuring at a minimum that their dogs eat a healthy diet, are vaccinated, get regular veterinary care, are bathed and groomed at least every six weeks, complete basic obedience training, and enjoy daily exercise.
As a preservation breeder, I am responsible for every life I bring into this world and thus am fiercely opposed to the irresponsible mating and whelping of animals. I do NOT sell Cavaliers for breeding purposes. Dogs are sold as family pets ONLY on spay/neuter contracts with limited AKC and CKCSC registrations which do NOT allow them to be bred or to be shown in conformation (although they can compete in other dog sports). If for any reason a buyer can no longer care for a Lakeville dog, I will ALWAYS take my dogs back - no matter where, no matter when, no questions asked. The dogs I breed can ALWAYS come home to me.
When you buy a puppy from Lakeville Cavaliers, you automatically become part of our family forever. After all, I am entrusting you with a living being that I have spent years planning for and doing everything I can to give him or her the best possible start in life! If you just want to get a dog and not build a long-term relationship with us, I am NOT the breeder for you. I expect buyers to update me at least once per year about their dogs and their overall health. This information helps me improve my breeding program and allows me to share valuable information with the buyers of related dogs.
I take pride in offering lifelong advice and support to my puppy buyers. Have a training question? Call me. Worried about whether a particular behaviour is normal? Call me. Concerned about something your vet said about your dog? Call me. Admittedly I am not a veterinarian or professional animal behaviourist, but I know a lot about dogs in general and my Cavaliers specifically. Nonetheless, I am always open to learning new things and am not hidebound by tradition. I do not profess to have all the answers, but I will help you find the right ones for your dog.
Below is a detailed timeline about the process of buying a puppy. Regardless of whether you buy a dog from me or from someone else, this information should help you understand how reputable, professional breeders operate and what you as a buyer should expect.
Toshi (Meadowlake Toshihiro) at 4 weeks of age - he was my first Cavalier ever.
Before You Buy - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Is a Cavalier Right for You?
Before you buy or adopt any purebred dog, you first must determine whether or not the breed is appropriate for your personality, lifestyle, living environment, and knowledge base. The good news is that Cavaliers are an extremely intelligent, highly adaptable breed that can thrive in lots of different environments and adjust to a variety of lifestyles. The bad news is that there are still some unique characteristics that make them unsuitable for everyone.
A good starting point is reading the breed standard. The AKC describes breed standards thusly:
"The breed standard is an in-depth, written description of how the ideal dogs in a breed should look, move, and act. These details go beyond saying a dog has a pretty face and will work for food. Standards spell out the breed’s physical characteristics that give it its unique shape, movement, and overall appearance and enable it to perform the job its original developers intended."
In the U.S., the two most respected breed standards were drafted by the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club of the U.S.A., the original national breed club for Cavaliers since 1954, and the American Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club, the AKC national breed club for Cavaliers since the AKC formally recognized the breed in 1996. In conformation shows like the National Dog Show or the Westminster Kennel Club show, judges assess the dogs against their breed standards and ideally choose the dogs who most closely resemble the ideal dogs described by the standards. The clubs periodically update the breed standards to address new show rules and evolving attitudes on breed type. Below are links to these standards.
CKCSCUSA breed standard: https://ckcsc.org/standard
ACKCSC breed standard: https://images.akc.org/pdf/breeds/standards/CavalierKingCharlesSpaniel.pdf
Next, whenever possible you should try to attend a local Meet the Breeds event or dog show or club meetup. The AKC hosts large Meet the Breeds events in cities around the U.S., but many kennel clubs host them as well as part of their conformation shows. For example, I always participate in Meet the Breed at the Houston World Series of Dog Shows every July. The kennel club assigns us a specific time during the show, I and my fellow club members bring their dogs and information about the breed to the assigned ring, and we spend an hour or so talking with people about Cavaliers and letting them interact with our dogs. Sometimes regional Cavalier clubs will have events open to the public too. Our local Houston club hosts an annual Fun Day in the Park. We also periodically have meetups at a dog-friendly brewery. Both are open to everyone.
You can search for all AKC conformation shows by using their online event search: https://webapps.akc.org/event-search/#/search
You can search for upcoming CKCSCUSA events here: https://ckcsc.org/events
You can search for regional AKC Cavalier clubs here: https://ackcsc.org/the-club/regional-clubs/
Events like these give you an opportunity to talk to experienced breeders and owners about Cavaliers and get a variety of perspectives to help you determine if it is an appropriate breed for you. They also enable you to acquire information about Cavaliers that is NOT in the breed standard but is still important for potential owners (e.g., common health issues).
Do Your Homework
Once you decide that Cavaliers seem like they might a great breed for you, there is still more work to be done! For starters, you should ask yourself questions like these (THIS IS NOT AN EXHAUSTIVE LIST!) and HONESTLY reflect on your answers:
- How comfortable are you with shedding?
The most common question I get from people who have never owned a Cavalier is, "Do they shed a lot?" Here's the problem: I do NOT know what constitutes "a lot" for you. When I had Golden Retrievers, I vacuumed and dusted almost every day, had lint rollers and tape scattered around the house to remove hair from my clothes, and dreaded autumn when the dogs brought piles of dead leaves in on their coats. With Cavaliers, I vacuum and dust about two or three times per week, use lint rollers a lot less, and deal with a lot fewer dead leaves being dragged inside, but I am also fine with not having a perfectly pristine house 24/7.
Cavaliers are indoors dogs. They want to be with their humans constantly and should not be kept outside. Cavalier hair is similar to human hair and tends to clump into small tumbleweeds after it is shed. It is pretty easy to vacuum up or wipe off surfaces with a microfiber towel or static duster. But Cavaliers do shed, and the more you own, the more shedding you can expect. Seasonal coat drop is common, so at certain times of year your dogs will shed more than usual. Moreover, as detailed below, Cavaliers have been bred for centuries as lap dogs, and it is difficult - but not totally impossible - to train them to stay off the furniture.
If you prefer a spotlessly clean house at all times and do not want your dogs on your furniture ever, this is probably NOT a good breed for you. If you prefer a tidy home but are not draconian about it AND are willing to comb and brush your dog, vacuum, and dust daily, you can keep your house pretty clean and hair-free. The point is: only you know how much hair and dander you can tolerate and how much cleaning you are willing to do to live with dogs.
- Do you have the financial means to own a Cavalier?
This is always a tough question for people. The purchase price of a puppy is only the beginning. Obviously everyone who wants a dog knows they absolutely require food, water, vaccinations, heartworm and flea/tick preventative, bowls, treats, crates/exercise pens, collars, leashes, brushes, combs, beds, toys, baths, grooming, training, etc. The issue here is that most people do not realize how expensive even the most basic level of pet care for a Cavalier can be. A 14 lb bag of Royal Canin small breed adult food currently costs about US$60 retail and will likely feed the average Cavalier for roughly 2.5 months. Heartgard Plus - even with a bulk discount - runs about US$10 per chew which is given once month. Commercial groomers often charge US$100 and up for bathing, grooming, and trimming a Cavalier, and Cavaliers should be bathed and groomed at least once per month. It all adds up...and fast!
Before you buy a Cavalier, try to research the average cost for various items and services in your area. If you do not have a regular vet clinic, investigate your options and talk to them about how they operate, e.g., how often will they require your dog to be seen in order to maintain their current patient status (usually at least once every year)? How do they handle after hours emergencies? Will they send in prescriptions to offsite pharmacies for you or will you have to pick up paper scripts and submit them yourself? Doing this BEFORE you even start to look for a dog will help you determine if now is a good time to get a dog or if you need to wait.
Then there are the breed specific quirks which owners should plan for even if they get lucky and avoid them. Cavaliers are not known for having strong, healthy teeth, so you should plan for your dog to have a professional dental cleaning under anaesthesia at least once per year. Prices vary dramatically, and if you dog requires extractions or IV antibiotics, you could pay hundreds of dollars on top of the basic dental cleaning charge. Sometimes Cavaliers develop allergies to certain foods, plants, trees, or other substances, and depending on the severity, they may need allergy testing and shots for the rest of their lives. As they get older, many Cavaliers will get a heart murmur which may worsen into mitral valve disease and congestive heart failure. Just the daily medication to treat these conditions can cost hundreds of dollars per month, not to mention the cardiologist visits in addition to regular vet exams.
More critically, life is unpredictable. My first Cavalier Toshi tore a ligament in his rear knee while chasing a squirrel and required surgery and physical therapy for six weeks. My second Cavalier Mimi had a penchant for finding and eating things she should not, and I spent thousands of dollars keeping her from poisoning herself. Several of my dogs have been bitten by venomous snakes and needed emergency treatment. I recommend that in addition to buying pet insurance if possible, owners should maintain a dedicated bank account for dog care and emergencies and deposit funds into it every month. Track your dog expenses in a spreadsheet and plan for inflation over the life of the dog.
My point here is simple: as much as I love dogs and believe everyone who wants one should have one, I cannot in good conscience sell a puppy to someone who is unprepared for the financial realities of pet ownership. Pets are unfortunately a luxury and not a right. Dogs are wholly dependent on humans for everything, and it is unfair to deprive them of a good quality of life because you cannot afford the cost of care. You should also NOT stretch yourself thin to afford a pet. If money is an issue but you cannot imagine not having a dog in your life, considering volunteering with a shelter or rescue or investigating dog walking/pet sitting opportunities. Join a dog club and volunteer at shows and events. There are lots of ways to get your "dog fix" without going broke.
- Is your living space suitable for a dog?
The good news is that Cavaliers do not need a lot of space to thrive and can adapt to anything. Their greatest joy is to be with their humans after all, and they definitely do not care whether they live in a apartment or a mansion.
On the other hand, Cavaliers have essentially zero self preservation instincts. To them, the world is a happy, wonderful place full of nice people and friendly dogs - which makes perfect sense when you remember that they were originally bred to be the beloved companions of royalty and were historically spoiled rotten. As a result, it is your responsibility to protect your Cavalier from his/her natural assumptions that they are invincible and universally adored by everyone.
One of the most controversial policies I and many other Cavalier breeders enforce is that I usually will not sell a puppy to families with children under the age of 5. Admittedly there are rare exceptions, but as part of my getting to know you process before I sell you a puppy, I will ask to meet everyone who lives in your home and will have regular contact with or responsibility for caring for the puppy - including your children. Although Cavaliers are the tallest of the toy breeds, they are basically eternal toddlers living in a world designed for much larger and sturdier humans. Just jumping off a sofa wrong or tripping on stairs can seriously injure a Cavalier puppy. In addition, as any parent will tell you, kids can hurt themselves in the blink of an eye, and young children do not always exercise good judgment and impulse control. Trying to raise a puppy at the same time as a baby or young child is, quite frankly, a terrible idea. Any dog - including a Cavalier - can bite if they feel threatened or are in pain or want to guard something or someone, and the last thing I would want is for one of my dogs to hurt a child or to get hurt or die accidentally.
Even if you have children over the age of 5, there may still be times when I refuse to sell you a puppy. If you and your kids have packed schedules such that the puppy might be alone most of the day and only interact with you for a few hours first thing the morning and last thing at night, that is not a good environment for a puppy. If your children come to my home and fail to follow my instructions when I introduce them to my dogs and puppies or, worse still, deliberately ignore you when you ask them not to do something in my presence, I am probably not selling you a puppy. Trust me when I say that every breeder has horror stories involving pet buyers, so kindly understand that everything I do and require as part of buying a puppy from me is motivated solely by my desire to always do what is best for my dogs. Besides, when I say "not now," very rarely do I mean "never" or "over my dead body." Many buyers get a Cavalier when their children are in high school and less dependent on their parents. They truly love having a dog who is devoted to them, especially when the kids go off to college or move out on their own.
Just as you babyproof for a human child, you should babyproof for a dog. Keep in mind that just because you think something would NEVER interest or hurt a dog does not mean it cannot or will not do so. For example, as a young girl Susie chewed an uncovered lamp cord and got a nasty electrical shock which scared her enough that she still gives power strips and cords a wide berth. Fortunately, she suffered no injury except maybe a bruised ego, but I know other dogs who have suffered electrical burns and been scarred for life due to chewing on cords. Another one of my dogs, Presley, was fascinated by remote controls and chewed up any ones that we left on the coffee table. We ended up storing them in drawers for months until he stopped teething. I like to knit and needlepoint, but I learned the hard way not to leave any supplies or tools out. The one time I left my knitting bag on the floor, the dogs chewed several balls of expensive yarn and some of my needles. This is another reason why I am hesitant to sell puppies to families with small children. They may inadvertently leave toys, books, batteries, unsafe food, etc. where a dog can get to them and then will get upset when the dog destroys their things and/or gets sick from ingesting something dangerous.
Cavaliers should not be left unsupervised for long periods. In my house, I have a five minute rule: if I let my dogs out to go potty in the backyard, the longest they can be left alone in the yard while I am still in the house is five minutes. If I am swimming or soaking in the hot tub or doing yard work and the dogs are inside the house uncrated, I check on them every five minutes. Annoying? Yes, but better safe than sorry!
If you have a yard, it must be fenced for any off-leash activities, and ideally the fence should be at least 8 feet tall and solid. Period. Some Cavaliers have amazing vertical leaps and can climb like mountain goats; I have seen some jump 10 feet fences or climb over chain link fences and latticework. They also will dig under fences, so many owners install wire grates in the soil under the fence or put large stones along the fence line. Invisible fencing systems do NOT work on Cavaliers either, and they do not prevent people from stealing your dog or other dogs from attacking. Cavaliers will gladly endure the quick zap of an invisible fence collar if they see something that interests them outside the boundary. You should also always clean up after your dog, especially if having a pretty lawn is important to you. Dog urine and poop can easily kill grass and attract predators. In addition, while doggy doors that connect the house to an outdoor fenced area are incredibly helpful, your dog should not be able to access a doggy door when you are not home or at night. I strongly recommend using only doggy doors that come with solid barrier inserts as they will keep your dogs from free roaming outside and keep wildlife like opossums, squirrels, or coyotes from coming inside. The electronic collar ones that only allow your dogs to enter and exit only keep them safe indoors IF you remember to remove their collars. They also will not stop a predator from seeing and tearing through the doggy door to get to your dogs.
Next, Cavaliers can never fully be trusted off lead, and you should NEVER assume that they have perfect recall. Cavaliers are frequently very curious and interested in everything going on around them. Their lack of shyness and outgoing, confident personalities are key reasons for their increasing popularity. I never allow my dogs off lead in public. I also train my dogs that they cannot leave the house without a collar and lead on (except for the back door leading to our fully fenced yard). My former home had multiple doors leading to the outside and was located on a busy street, but I trained my dogs that there were only three doors to the backyard through which they could exit without collars and leads. If any other door was open, I also trained them to sit and wait until it was closed or I had put on their collars and leads and released them from the sit. While you can (and should) train certain behaviours off lead such as sit, down, and stay, you should never rely upon your dog's training in public places or open environments.
If you live in an apartment or condo or similar place without fenced yards, you absolutely must leash train your dog and plan for your dog's potty breaks and daily exercise, regardless of weather. More importantly, responsible owners always clean up after their dogs but dump stinky poop bags in appropriate trash receptacles - NOT strangers' garbage cans. Believe it or not, I know a few dog owners who have invested in Diaper Genies for precisely this reason! I am not opposed to the use of puppy pads or sod/turf trays indoors, especially for puppies since they are clearly more sanitary than the great outdoors, but ideally you should train your dogs that pottying always happens outside - the world is their toilet!
Regardless of where you live, you must have room for an appropriately sized crate or exercise pen in which to confine your dog when you are not home or when necessary for his/her safety or the comfort of others. Most adult Cavaliers require at least a size 200 crate (roughly 18"w x22"d x24"h) or a multi-panel exercise pen that is at least 36" tall. There are a variety of water bowls and bottles that can attach to crates and exercise pens for hydration, but I never leave food, bones, or treats in their crates when I am not at home. (Sadly I know of a few Cavaliers who choked to death this way.) Contrary to some beliefs, crates are not cruel - they are your dog's den and safe space. My dogs roam freely around the house when I am at home, but they frequently retreat to their crates for naps or when they need a break from noise/activity. I feed my dogs in their crates too which makes it very easy to tell if one of my dogs is not eating. Exercise pens are quite helpful for puppies; you can set up designated sleeping, eating, and potty areas inside the pen and even crate train by putting a bed inside an open crate in the sleeping area. I always secure my dogs in their crates when I leave the house, even if I am just running to the grocery for five minutes, and to sleep at night. If, God forbid, a dog gets sick or has an accident during the night, at least the mess is confined and I know exactly who the culprit was!
Also think about how you will rescue your dog in case of an emergency, like a fire or flood. I have stickers on my doors and some windows that warn first responders that I have dogs in the house who should be saved. When my dog room was on the second floor of my former home, I bought a window ladder and sling so I could carry my dogs to safety on my back in a fire. I also kept an extension ladder handy in my backyard so I could access the second floor from outside if need be. I have doggie first aid kits in my home and car and always have a supply of commonly used medications on hand.
Basically, before you think about buying a puppy, really study your home and yard and decide what you must do to make it both safe and welcoming for a dog AND for you and your family. Plan for the worst, but hope for the best.
- What will your dog do while you are at work all day? How do you plan to handle unexpected emergencies or travel without your pet?
Puppies typically leave me at 12-14 weeks of age. They have had some puppy shots, but they are not fully vaccinated nor do they have robust immune systems. I also recommend that owners wait until at least 20 weeks of age before giving Cavaliers their first rabies shots. It is a very tough vaccine for their little bodies, but waiting to give it means people should keep their puppies at home and restrict their access to the outdoors and other animals. I also strongly recommend that owners wait until 12-15 months of age before spaying or neutering. This allows the puppy's growth plates to close and typically eliminates or greatly reduces issues that arise from pediatric desexing, such as joint problems. Moreover, the rule of thumb is that every month of age equals roughly an hour of time that a puppy can "hold" his pee or poop during regular daytime activities (most can last longer while sleeping at night). Thus, a three or four month old puppy will need to potty every three to four hours during the day. Still, it is never a good idea to regularly require any dog to go more than seven or eight hours between daytime potty breaks or without having access to indoor potty area.
HOWEVER, doggie daycares generally bar unvaccinated and intact dogs. So for the first year or so of your puppy's life, unless you are at home all day long, you will need to make alternative arrangements that for safety reasons do not involve a doggy door and prayer. I am aware that some breeders refuse to sell Cavaliers to people who work outside the home or are gone for long periods during the day. I am not that strict as long as you have concrete plans for caring for your dog during the day, such hiring a puppy sitter or dog walker or having a relative who is usually at home. My adult Cavaliers typically nap from about 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day, and puppies will take multiple naps per day after playing and pottying. Thus, before you buy a dog, you should plan accordingly to ensure you can get your daily tasks done and keep your dog safe, happy, and healthy.
You should also determine how you will board your dog when you are on vacation/business trips or have a family emergency. I board Cavaliers in my home for my pet people and have several local breeder friends who also board dogs. If I am unavailable, I always have other safe, reliable options for my boarding clients. Many pet owners board their dogs at their vets or commercial facilities or hire a pet sitter to stay with their dogs in their own home, which allows their dogs to stick to their familiar routines. Many vet clinics can refer you to trusted sitters or boarding facilities, but your friends who already own dogs may have excellent recommendations too. Some people are fortunate enough to have family or friends who will babysit their dogs and can be called upon in a pinch. While I realize there are referral websites like Rover and Wag for dog walkers/pet sitters, I always advise owners to conduct their own background checks and ask for references from other customers before hiring anyone to look after a dog. Do NOT solely rely on a website or online reviews! I also recommend identifying and talking to a few people whom you trust about whether they would be willing to look after your dog or at a minimum transport him/her to a boarding facility in the event of an emergency. Then make sure they always have all of the contact information for you, your extended family, your dog's vet, etc. and a spare key (or know how to get a spare key to your home).
Dogs are for life and cannot take care of themselves. It is your responsibility as an owner to plan for
the times when you might not be able to take care of your dog.
- How do you plan to train a dog? Are you an experienced trainer who has successfully worked with a range of temperaments and biddability levels using multiple training techniques and tools? Or are you a newbie who would rather hire a professional trainer for your dog?
I say this all the time, but training is less about teaching your dog specific skills and commands and more about training the humans to be consistent and clear about expectations with the dog. I also firmly believe a trained dog is a happy dog. Dogs should learn what is and is not appropriate behaviour and will appreciate structure, consistency, and defined boundaries. Owners must give dogs the necessary training to be safe, polite, and well behaved at all times.
My former home was located on a busy street and had two doors that opened into the unfenced front yard. It also had five doors that opened into the fully fenced backyard. For safety reasons I do not allow my dogs to wear collars or leads around the house. While I lived there, I trained all of my dogs that they could come and go through the five doors leading to the backyard without a collar and lead. However, I trained them to immediately sit if one of the two doors leading to the front yard were open and that they could not enter or exit through these doors without collars, leads, and my specific command. My dogs also quickly learned that if they wanted to go for their afternoon walks or for car rides, they first had to sit nicely, allow me to put on their collars and leads, and release them to get up and move. Without this training, I shudder to think what could have happened to them in my old neighbourhood.
When I got my Golden Retriever Samantha in 2002, YouTube and social media did not exist. I bought a book on clicker training at Barnes & Noble and trained my dogs (with a lot of trial and error) on my own. While I have never hired a trainer to work with my dogs on basic obedience and necessary commands, I train my show dogs by taking them to handling class in addition to working with them at home. Nowadays there is a wealth of free information online, including helpful how to videos, to assist you in training your dogs on your own, finding local in person training classes, and hiring a qualified professional trainer.
Every dog is different, so what works for one dog may not really resonate with another. I do not require owners to train their dogs at specific classes or using only certain methods (although I do require owners NOT to use negative reinforcement during training). All I really ask is that a potential puppy owner has a plan for training the dog and that s/he promises to reach out to me for help whenever necessary.
These are only a few of the many issues that dog owners may face. As always, if you have questions, kindly do not hesitate to reach out and ask. If I do not immediately have the answer, I will definitely help you find it!
Contacting and Meeting with a Breeder
Nowadays most people begin their search for a breeder online or through social media. If they are lucky, they find the CKCSCUSA or ACKCSC Breeder Referral pages (see below) or breeder referral pages of local/regional dog clubs and find reputable, experienced breeders who do all the right things to breed quality Cavaliers. If they are less lucky, they end up dealing with irresponsible producers who just want to profit from puppy sales or, worse still, they get scammed by unscrupulous people masquerading as legitimate breeders. Regardless of when and how you start looking for a breeder, there are some pretty universally accepted do's and don'ts.
Firstly - and I cannot stress this enough - NEVER, EVER, EVER open communication with a breeder by asking what they charge for a puppy. A reputable, conscientious, caring breeder will always want to get to know you first before deciding if you are a good potential buyer for them. Many breeders have wait lists and do not discuss money unless and until they are reasonably sure you will be a good home for a puppy and that they will have a puppy to meet your needs. We also find it insulting when a stranger focuses solely on the price of a puppy and appears callous about a living being and what many of us consider family.
More importantly, in Cavaliers and in life, three adages universally apply: caveat emptor (let the buyer beware), you get what you pay for, and pay now or pay later. A good breeder will want to meet you and your family in person before selling a puppy is even discussed, require you to fill out a detailed application with references, and will speak with you extensively about his/her breeding philosophy, his/her dogs, and eventually which puppies might be right for your needs. Good breeders have only a few litters per year and often sell fewer than 20 puppies as pets annually. A breeder that always has puppies for sale is a huge red flag. A breeder that lets their breeding dogs and bitches live in guardian homes except for breeding and puppy whelping is another red flag. A breeder that does not do all the recommended health and genetic testing on their dogs should be avoided. A breeder that offers to sell a puppy to you or arranges to ship a puppy to a buyer sight unseen is usually a scam. Next, smart pet buyers understand the difference between price and value. It costs me thousands of dollars to raise, health test, show, and title a potential breeding prospect BEFORE I even remotely consider breeding him or her. Once I choose to breed one of my girls, I pay thousands of dollars more for stud fees, pre-breeding healthcare, artificial insemination, prenatal and postnatal healthcare, C-sections when necessary, keeping neonate puppies alive, and getting them ready to go to new families. By the time I actually have a puppy available for sale, I have usually spent US$15,000-20,000 on that one litter. I also provide buyers with AKC and CKCSCUSA registrations, multigenerational pedigrees, photos of the parents and ancestors, proof of all health testing on the parents, detailed information about puppy care and Cavaliers, a gift bag (bowl, bed, leash, collar, toys, treats, puppy shampoo, comb, etc.), and a microchip registered with AKC Reunite. I - and many of my fellow reputable breeders - only want buyers who understand that the value of well bred puppies and the care that goes into bringing them to life ALWAYS far exceeds the purchase price. A quality dog will never be cheap. By the same token, I have met countless buyers over the years who paid ridiculously low prices for Cavaliers from irresponsible producers and came to regret their decisions when they were hit with expensive vet bills for conditions that could have been avoided or which should have rendered the puppy unsellable as a pet.
The BEST puppy inquiries I receive are typically e-mails in which the buyer tells me a little about him/herself, their family and home, their experience with dogs and/or Cavaliers, why they want a Cavalier, how they found me and what made them reach out to me, and what they are looking for in a puppy. If someone really, really, really wants a tricolour female puppy but I only have ruby male puppies available, I will immediately know to refer him/her to another breeder and not waste that person's time. If buyers make it clear to me that they have done their homework and are ready, willing, and able to buy a puppy, I am far more likely to do everything I can to find them puppies, even if I have none to sell to them.
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE also avoid contacting a breeder before a major holiday and trying to persuade him or her to sell you a puppy ASAP/by a certain date OR to sell you a puppy which will be given as a gift to someone else. First of all, I cannot predict when my girls will go into season, if they will get pregnant, if their pregnancies result in live births, and if any of the puppies who survive will be available for sale. I have a rough idea of which puppies may be sold as pets around four to six weeks after they are born, but I do not offer a puppy for sale nor do I take ap deposit for a puppy unless and until I have one that will work for you and that I know I will not keep. So asking a breeder to guarantee and finalize a sale before a holiday or specific date is pointless and will just annoy the breeder. Moreover, I do not sell puppies to people to give as gifts. I sell puppies to their forever homes and forever owners, and I have stringent provisions in my sales contract which bar people from reselling or rehoming dogs they buy from me and impose legal and financial penalties for contractual violations. Responsible breeders have similar contracts and policies. It is perfectly fine to ask a breeder if and when they might have puppies, but it is not ok to set arbitrary deadlines for a breeder to sell a puppy to you or to give a puppy as a present. Rest assured that if you call me asking for a Christmas or Valentine's Day puppy or to give as a gift, I WILL warn my local breeder friends about you and they will do the same for me if you call them.
In addition, no reputable, professional, diligent breeder ever donates a puppy or the right to purchase a puppy from a future litter as a raffle or auction prize. My dog clubs' Codes of Ethics absolutely prohibit transactions like this, and I typically respond to these inquiries by tersely stating, "My dogs are my family family members. I do not auction off my family to the highest bidder nor do I sell dogs to anyone and everyone." Do NOT ask a breeder to do this unless you want to be forever banned from buying a puppy from a reputable breeder. Also beware of any "breeder" who is open to these arrangements or has a history of making donations like this. They plainly do not have the best interests of their dogs at heart.
You should plan to come to my home to meet my dogs and me, even if I do not have puppies. I want you to get to know me and decide for yourself if you want to work with me. While there is no set format for a visit, we typically discuss your interest in Cavaliers and prior dog experience. I encourage people to make and bring a list of questions for me to answer as well. Most potential buyers will visit only two or three times before actually buying and taking home a puppy.
I maintain a waiting list of potential buyers based on their colour and sex preferences. I do NOT charge potential buyers any fees to be on my list. To secure a spot on the waiting list, you will be asked to fill out my puppy buyer application. As part of the application, I will ask you for three personal references and, if you have owned animals previously, a veterinarian reference. After I meet with you in person, review your application, and speak with your references and assuming I am satisfied that you are good potential home for a puppy, I will add you to my waiting list. It can take months or years before I have a puppy that is suitable for your needs. However, I also use my waiting list to refer buyers to my breeder friends when they have puppies for sale. Ultimately, if you are a good home for a puppy, I want you to find a terrific puppy as soon as possible. If I do not have what you would like, I want to help you get the right puppy even if I did not breed him or her.
I will periodically contact people on my waiting list as puppies become available. I only remove people from my waiting list under two circumstances: 1) they successfully purchase a puppy from me or 2) they request to be removed from my list. I do ask that as a courtesy to me potential buyers notify me promptly if they get a puppy elsewhere and/or no longer wish to buy a Lakeville Cavalier.
Picking a Puppy
When I have a puppy or puppies that might meet your needs, I will contact you and ask that you visit me again to meet the mother and puppies and to keep an open mind. I usually have an idea of which puppy in a litter I feel would be best for you, but it never hurts to see the puppies interact with potential future owners before making a final decision. I also have an idea of which puppies I want to keep for myself by around 9-10 weeks of age and will arrange visits for the puppies I wish to sell at that time. However, puppies never leave my home until they are at least 12 weeks of age and have had vet checks and necessary puppy shots.
Cavalier puppies are incredibly adorable and love meeting new people. I have yet to meet a buyer who did not instantly fall in love with the puppies and want to take them all home! This may come as a surprise to many people, but you rarely get to pick your puppy. In my experience, the right puppy will pick you. Even when a buyer is absolutely certain about a puppy, I will always ask you to sleep on it and call me the next day to confirm his/her decision. These visits are also no pressure. If after you meet the puppies you change your mind about getting a puppy from me, that is totally fine. You will not offend me in the least!
If a puppy chooses you and you decide to go forward with purchasing him/her, I will ask you to pay a deposit of at least $1000 and will give you my puppy sales contract to review. This deposit is fully refundable if ultimately the sale does not go through. When your puppy is ready to go to his/her new home, I will apply the deposit towards the purchase price and ask you to pay the remaining balance due. I will also ask you to begin thinking of potential registered names and call names so I can advise you on if they are available to be used. We will then arrange a final meeting at my home to sign the sales contracts, complete the necessary paperwork to register the puppy, and go over my puppy book and gift bag.
Homecoming
-
Aftercare
-